Twilight

            After a long nap in the afternoon, we decided to bike across the city, hoping to escape the groggy haze. As the sun made its decent over the landscape, twilight proclaimed its moment, coloring Torino with pastels. The soft light was cast over trees, bridges, and rivers. I was unable to ride for more than a brief distance, before having to stop for a picture. While gazing at reflections resting on the water, and swans slowing making their way upstream; I realized that the stories I heard as a child seemed less enchanting than what I now call ‘real life’ …

My Motto

Io amo i musei

I love museums. All museums. I’m not concerned with the topic of the exhibition. I adore wandering the halls quietly, stopping when something catches my eye.  On the contrary, I relish in feeling autonomous, breezing through a room that lacks creativity or uniqueness. Some days I’d prefer to sit, to admire the people. I witness their attempts to make sense of something that is odd or ugly. Or when people are completely captured by a piece and stand there, time stopping for a moment, lost in their thoughts. I meander the bookshops at the end, indulge in the overpriced cafeteria food.. For this reason I bought a  pass to the hundreds of museums, art galleries, palaces and churches that Torino has to offer. My first stop was the Museum of Oriental Art.

City Scenes

“The Creator made Italy from designs by Michaelangelo.” ~Mark Twain

** All photos were taken in Torino. My camera is mediocre, but the city takes care of that.

Underground Torino

     Popular for creating Fabbrica Italiana Automobilistica Torino (The Fiat), and hosting The 2006 Olympic Winter Games, Torino’s history is impressive and eclectic. Beginning in the first century, Torino was used as a military camp by Romans. Later, a germanic tribe, the Lombards, ruled for some time before Italy’s royal family, The Savoy’s took control. In the 1700’s the French, led by Napoleon fought over the possession of Torino.  In 1814, after the fall of Napoleon, Italy regained power in Torino, and in 1861 Torino was named the 1st capital of Unified Italy. In 1865 the capital was moved to Florence, and then to Rome, as it stands today. 

    On Friday night, we went on a “Underground Tour of Torino”. Our tour focused on the period during which Italy created a network of underground caves for military strategies. The Italians could literally disappear underground and move throughout the city without being seen from above. We were also treated to some underground cemeteries, and creepy Italian ghost stories that had us on our toes. My favorite legend was of Giovanni Giolli, who was a castle cleaner. He was convicted of stealing young girls,  murdering them, and hiding their remains in the castle. Future visitors, beware!!

Eating Habits

A common inquiry about life here is predictably, the food. I’ve found, when it’s 90+ degrees, I happily survive on a balanced diet of gelato and coca-light. Seeking something to write home about, we ventured out to experience some of the famous food Italy has to offer. We landed at Tre Galli (three roosters).  This award-winning restaurant is placed between several tall buildings with intricate architecture set upon cobblestones. Here, I sampled the carne cruda, avocado in insalata and yogurt (shown) and a cream of potato soup with shrimp. For dessert we split an apricot with chantilly cream on a sweet cake. A crisp white wine completed the meal. 

On a more simple evening, we grabbed burgers at Burgeria. I am not even really a burger person, and I was in complete awe of the place. The walls were covered with photos of customers in an array of awkward eating moments. One cook and one waitress prepared and served our bugger and fries in a dimly lit tavern. I enjoyed mine with my favorite Italian soda, Chinotto. Buon appetitto!

Bike Sharing

After a week or so of walking aimlessly, I’ve realized I may (someday) need to get somewhere in a timely fashion. I’ve allotted myself 1 new challenge per week, as I tend become overwhelmed easily; hence, little cori BIG ITALY. This week, I decided to tackle Torino’s transportation. For 20 euro (per year), I purchased a pass to use community bikes that can be checked out all over the city. You scan your card on the bike station, and choose a bike. I make my decision based on the height of the seat, though it’s probably smart to put a little more thought into it. Last night Luca’s bike peddle fell off mid-turn, and although it was hilarious in the moment,  it could have been a disaster given the location of the incident. No one wears helmets, so I’m guessing it’s a pretty big risk to join the madness of the streets, but heck, when in Italy..

 I was so excited my first time riding I did a little dance while seated.  I have absolutely no inhibitions here, because there is about a .0587397% chance anyone will know me, so my quirkiness has sky-rocketed to a whole new level. I turned around to check if Luca was watching, and by the time I righted myself I was half way up the skirt of an older woman walking in front of me. I slammed on the breaks and completely avoided her gaze and pointed words. I started paying a little more attention after that. One of my favorite scenes in Torino is watching men in suits toting briefcases and women in dresses and heals glide by elegantly on their way to work.  I’ve not advanced to this level of cycling yet. Perhaps it will be next week’s aspiration. ( 3 days later, mission complete )

San Savino

Today we went to the small city of Ivrea, which was celebrating its saint, San Savino. A marching band made its way up and down narrow streets, lacing the air with a festive soundtrack.. Art lurked all around seeking attention; against walls, in small boats, propped up in window displays, falling out of tiny shops.. Food was abundant, making the air pregnant with mouthwatering aromas.. Here is a glimpse of the atmosphere:

“What is the fatal charm of Italy? What do we find there that can be found nowhere else? I believe it is a certain permission to be human, which other places, other countries, lost long ago.” ~ Erica Jong

Slowing Down

Saturday has arrived, and it’s time to do some laundry. The slow way, of course. I have not yet researched the reason, but no one seems to have dryers. Clothes are washed, hung to dry, and ironed. As a result, the process is extended, but so is the life of the clothing. During summer, it’s a simple and pleasant chore. However, I may revisit this issue come winter..

Strambino, the town where Luca’s parents live, reminds me a lot of Delaware. Cornfields for miles, humidity, bugs. As I was reminiscing about visiting my grandparents, I remembered the tea my grandma made in her backyard. The tea is warmed by the sun for a day, sweetened, then kept chilled in her refrigerator all summer long. The memory evolved into an obsession, so I bought some mason jars and made my own.

While I’m waiting for the laundry to dry, or the tea to brew; I read. S-L-O-W-L-Y. Luca’s brother, Marco, designs the layout for several magazines. He brings them home for me to practice reading. And I say this very loosely. I decipher the headings, and attempt to make meaning out of the articles.

Each day, I am overwhelmed with the exquisite beauty, and the eminent history that Torino and it’s surrounding countryside exhibits. I think Oscar sums it up best, as he describes his approach to Torino from the mountains (where I am currently residing).

I REACHED the Alps: the soul within me burned
Italia, my Italia, at thy name:
And when from out the mountain’s heart I came
And saw the land for which my life had yearned,
I laughed as one who some great prize had earned ~Oscar Wilde

New Life Begins

I find myself exhausted. It can’t be the travel, as I’ve had plenty of experience on public transportation navigating through unfamiliar cities. It’s just that my brain feels tired, as it is continually working to decode phrases, understand directions, or follow a conversation. I get to a point in the late afternoon where I just can’t take it anymore, and I try to force myself to NOT try to understand. I walk with my head down to avoid text, tune out conversations around me. The linguistic stimulation is quite overwhelming. And there’s no escaping it. By the evening, I want ear plugs and a blindfold to shut down. I feel like a robot that needs recharging.

But the good news is that I’m loving it here. Every bit, even the difficult bits. Yesterday I had my first day of ‘Intensive Italian’ lessons, which continue Monday – Friday for the month of July. There are only 2 other people in my course; a Argentinean engineering student and a German self-proclaimed ‘algae scientist’. I’m keeping it a secret that I’ve taken 1 introductory course in San Diego, which makes my teacher very impressed with how ‘spongelike’ I am.

After my class, I took the metro to meet with my new co-teacher. She is the French component to myself, and we need to plan our first unit for the first few weeks of school. We went through French documents and text books searching for ideas and projects, misunderstanding each other all the while. As I sat in her kitchen sweating in the humidity on her stylish yet impractical chairs, and thunder roared outside, I had a serious out-of-body moment. I felt as if I living someone else’s life, playing a part. Shaking the fog from my head (volia!) I refocused for another hour, and then drug myself home to collapse.

Today we were off to Milan for a visit to the US Embassy. Because the morning was all business, we decided to find a softer side of Milan in the afternoon. Strolling along less crowded streets brought many pleasant surprises; lots of greenery, cosy restaurants outside shaded by pastel umbrellas, lazy lawns nestled next to ponds and streams.. We settled on panini and cokes, and spent a quiet moment soaking up the sun and enjoying some peace.